Category: Hiking Page 1 of 2

Dylan and I recently drove to Truckee, California to hike the Historic Donner Tunnels. It turned out to be more of a walk than a hike, but it was interesting and a little bit creepy. The tunnels are dark and there are bats and rats living inside them. If you walk through all of the tunnels it is about 5 miles roundtrip. Most of the path is gravel or hard-packed sand.

Where to Enter Donner Tunnels

There are a few places to start this hike. We decided to start closest to tunnel 6. The day we went to the Donner Tunnels we encountered multiple road closures due to construction. We were finally able to circle back to Donner Pass Road (Old Highway 40) and we parked in the Sugar Bowl dirt parking lot. The entrance to tunnel 6 is a short walk through this parking lot.

The History of The Donner Tunnels

In the late 1800s, the Central Pacific Company wanted to extend their railway lines from Sacramento, California to Ogden, Utah and that meant that they would have to cross Donner Pass. CPC employed Chinese immigrants to dig tunnel #6 by hand. One man would hold a drill bit while two others hit the bit with a sledgehammer. They would continue hammering until their hole was big enough for explosives. Using this method the men only averaged 14 inches of progress a day. CPC completed the tunnel in a year and a half and the first trains were able to pass in 1867. Trains ran on this route for 125 years until 1993 when the route was changed and the railroad tracks were taken out of the tunnel.

Tunnel #6

Tunnel #6 is the most impressive of all the historic tunnels. It is the longest at 1,600 feet. When I looked up at the top and at the sides I could see the solid granite. It is amazing to think that men had basically carved out this tunnel by hand. As soon as I walked inside the tunnel I couldn’t believe how cool it was. It was at least 20 degrees cooler than outside. Although it was the middle of August and the snow had long since melted we had to watch where we were walking, because of all standing water throughout the tunnel.

Walking Through the Historic Donner Tunnels

Not all of the tunnels are pitch black. Some of the tunnels have slits on the walls near the top and these let in light. These slits were my favorite part of all the tunnels. The lighting is amazing as it bounces through the slits and lights up the corridor.

There are also a few spots where the wall is open either via a rolled-up door or a broken wall. Step back out into the light and you will have a great view of Donner Lake.

I Was Scared in the Donner Tunnel

I thought I knew what to expect in the tunnels, but I was unprepared for the bats, rats, and the pitch black. We brought flashlights, but when we were in the middle of tunnel #6 it was pitch black even with the flashlights on. The bats never bothered us, but we could hear them. The rats freaked me out. I lost my cool when I almost stepped on a dead rat that was as large as a small house cat. At one point we heard a noise that at first sounded like the wind and then it got louder and louder until it sounded like a train coming through the tunnel. I looked down to make sure there were no train tracks and then I had visions of a ghost train. It turned out it was a truck from the railway company driving through the tunnel.

Graffiti

Like it or not there is plenty of graffiti in the tunnels. For the most part, the graffiti is all contained on the inside of the tunnels and is not spilling out into the surrounding areas. Some of the graffiti looks like art and some look like just a normal tag. I’ll leave it up to you if you think it belongs here or not.

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Tips to Help You Enjoy the Donner Tunnels

• Bring a sweater or jacket even in the summer. It’s much cooler inside the tunnels.
• Wear good shoes. You will be walking on lots of uneven gravel.
• Wear closed toe shoes. Even in summer there is standing water inside the tunnel. I wouldn’t want that water on my feet.
• Bring a big flashlight. The tunnels are dark!
• The tunnels can be dangerous in the winter and spring because of falling icicles.
• Bring a friend because only the brave would want to do this hike alone.

On a Friday in June Sally and I decided to try hiking Mount Baden-Powell. We have both done this hike before, so we fooled ourselves into thinking that it wouldn’t be that hard of a day. Boy were we wrong. We encountered crazy weather, large banks of snow, and the added difficulty of trying to hike with two dogs.

Driving to Mount Baden-Powell

The trailhead is located off of Highway 2 outside of Wrightwood. Be aware that Highway 2 is often closed. The highway is prone to landslides and Cal Trans spends a considerable amount of time scraping rocks off the road. Be sure and check for road closures before you drive there. The trail starts at Vincents Gap and there is a large parking lot. The parking lot fills up on the weekend and an adventure pass is required to park. There are two vault toilets, but no running water.

Mount Baden-Powell

The summit of Mount Baden-Powell is at 9,406 feet and it is one of the tallest peaks in the San Gabriel mountains. The trail to the summit intersects with the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) in case you want to channel your inner Cheryl Strayed. The mountain was named for Lord Baden-Powell the founder of the Boy Scouts.

Up We Go

The trail up is pretty straight forward and easy to follow. It is about 4 1/2 miles to the top and we climbed about 3,000 feet. The incline felt a little more gradual than some of the other Southern California peaks because there are over 40 switchbacks on the way to the top. When we first started up the air was cool and the sky was clear. We didn’t pass many people because we were hiking on a weekday.

Snow in June

A couple of miles into our hike and we encountered our first snow. We let the dogs stop and have fun in the snow. About a mile from the top we got to banks of snow that were covering the trail. It wasn’t possible to go around, because it was too steep above and below so we had to go through it. Unfortunately, because it was June the snow was soft and we post-holed through the banks. The dogs had no problem going over the snow, but somehow Sally and I came out looking like we had rolled around in a snowbank.

Wally Waldron

Just below the summit, we walked across a ridge and we came upon Wally Waldron the oldest living organism in the San Gabriel Mountains. Wally Waldron is an ancient Limber Pine estimated to be over 1,500 years old. Its roots are precariously hanging onto the edge of the trail. These large knarled roots help protect Wally from the wind and rain. There is a sign telling about the history of the tree. After passing Wally it is just a few short switchbacks to the summit of Baden Powell.

The Summit

We were so relieved to reach the summit. There is a monument to Baden- Powell, a logbook, and sometimes there is an American Flag and a summit sign. On this visit, there was no flag. There seems to be a debate going on within the hiking community about leaving flags and trail signs. Some people believe that leaving these things at the summit violates the leave no trace policy. There was a summit sign this time so we took pictures with it. This was Jinx’s 2nd summit. After our pictures, we found a place to hunker down and eat lunch and rehydrate. We used so much energy on the way up that after lunch we both lied down in the dirt and closed our eyes for about 30 minutes. It felt glorious to soak up the sun and rest.

Time to Hike Down

Some people might think that going down is easier than going up, but that is not always the case. When we are feeling tired going down can feel hard on our knees and if you add dogs and snow to the mix down can be even more treacherous. Getting past the snow was even more difficult on the way down because the sun had warmed up the snowbanks. We tried to step our way across, but we basically turned the snowbank into a giant slip and slide, and by the time we got to the other side our pants were soaking wet and we had a lot of good laughs.

The Weather

During our hike, we encountered a wide variety of weather. In the morning it was cool and cloudy, however, when we got to the summit the sun was out and the skies were blue. On our way down very low clouds started to roll in and the temperature dropped. We felt like we were walking in a cloud bank. When we got close to the bottom it started to rain and then it hailed a little bit. Luckily, neither the hail nor rain lasted long and we just kept hiking down.

The Take Away

In June Sally and I were still training for Mt. Whitney so we were happy we completed this hike. We both agreed that hiking Baden Powell reinforced a few good lessons. #1 Sometimes your body just might not be feeling like hiking. Sally and I have both hiked Baden Powell before in half the amount of time that this hike took, but for whatever reason, it just wasn’t our day. #2 Always be prepared for anything. We both have micro-spikes and they would have made our trek over the snow so much easier, but who knew we would need micro-spikes in June in Southern California. Also, neither of us had brought rain gear. The rain wasn’t in the forecast at all for the day and when we left the valley it was sunny.

We Made It To The Car

Luckily, we made it back to the car without getting drenched. We might have to revisit Baden Powell in the near future because it is a beautiful hike that is great for conditioning and it is part of the Southern California Six Pack of Peaks.

Momyer Creek Trail to Alger Camp is located in Forest Falls in the San Bernardino Forest. When it’s 96 degrees in the valley and we want to hike we have to head to the mountains. We decided that since we were hiking with dogs and we did not want to push them too hard in the heat that we would try the Momyer Creek Trail, because there are water crossings and some shade. Our hike was 9 miles roundtrip.

Momyer Creek Trailhead

It was an easy one hour drive to the trailhead for us. Momyer Creek trailhead is reached by turning east off Highway 38 to Forest Falls, continue up the road 3 miles to the large parking area on your left 100 yards before the fire station.The address is 40560 Valley of the Falls Dr. in Forest Falls, CA. There is a dirt parking lot with trail signs, trash cans, and picnic tables, however, there are no bathrooms.

Crossing the Creek

The trail immediately descends into a wash and you have to cross Mill Creek. There is not a bridge, so use extreme caution. We were able to pick our way across on rocks and logs. The water was moving rapidly and looked a little too deep to plunge in and try to cross that way. Flash floods have occurred in the area that has resulted in many hikers needing to be rescued so make sure you are aware of the weather conditions before you cross.

Heading up Momyer Creek Trail

Immediately after crossing Mill Creek, we saw a sign that states in 3 miles we would need a wilderness permit, however, we were heading towards Alger Camp and we wouldn’t be needing a permit. At this point, the trail starts to head up via switchbacks. The trail gains bout 1,800 feet in 3 miles and is moderately strenuous. A lot of the trail is shaded by big oak trees on the way up, so it makes it a great option for a hot day. We were hiking in June and the wildflowers were amazing. There were large patches of Lupine and Indian Paintbrush along with some flowers that we did not know the name of. After we had hike 2 miles we stopped on a log and gave the dogs a drink. We were able to find the perfect place in the shade.

Entering San Gorgonio Wilderness

At approximately the 3 mile mark we saw the sign for San Gorgonio Wilderness. Shortly after the sign, we came to the juncture for San Bernardino Peak, Alger Creek, and Dobbs Cabin. There was a sign for Alger Creek and Dobbs Cabin, but nothing for San Bernardino Peak. If you would like to head to the peak there is a small trail on the left side that heads straight up the mountain. It’s another 3,000 feet of climbing to reach San Bernardino Peak. In order to continue on that trail, you do need a wilderness permit. We followed the trail that veers right towards Alger Creek.

Heading Down to Alger Creek

The trail down to Alger Creek follows a series of small switchbacks. This is a shady section of the trail. At one point we walked into a small patch of Redwoods. The Redwoods are towering above the other trees. We also walked past a small spring that is bubbling out of the side of the mountain. The extra water in the area is helping the ferns grow. The path down to Alger Creek is just .7 miles. We saw a sign when we got to the creek and in order to get Alger Camp, we needed to cross the creek. Again we were able to get across on a combination of rocks and logs.

Alger Camp

Alger Camp is located .25 miles below the creek. There are some big logs to sit on. We saw where someone had set up a tent before, but there wasn’t anyone camping there. Alger Camp might be a good location for an overnight backpacking trip. No fires are allowed, but you can use your gas stoves. With the creek running by there is an endless supply of water as long as you are filtering it. We ate our lunch and let the dogs rest in the cool shade. It was a peaceful location if you don’t take into account the biting flies. We could have continued on the trail for another 2 miles to Dobbs Cabin, but according to AllTrails, there isn’t much to see there so we turned around and headed back the way we came.

Hiking Back to The Car

The first .7 miles was uphill and after that, we were pretty much headed downhill until we got to Mill Creek. The way back was much warmer and we had to stop several times to give the dogs water. The views were great. We could see Yucaipa Ridge, San Bernardino Peak, and Mill Creek Canyon. According to the Forest Service this one of the most underused trails in the San Gorgonio Wilderness within the Sand to Snow National Monument. We saw a total of 3 people the entire day. We were again able to cross Mill Creek safely. There is not a clear path back to the car we just had to carefully step over rocks along the wash. Although this hike doesn’t have a big pay off it is a beautiful trail with good views and plenty of shade for a warm day.

In May sally and I went hiking in Big Bear, CA. We are training for Mt. Whitney so we headed to Big Bear to hike at a higher altitude. Living basically at sea level makes it harder to prepare for hikes that start at such a high elevation. We decided on the Castle Rock Trail but followed someone’s advice from All Trails and added Bluff Lake and Champion Lodge Pine to our hike.

Driving to Castle Rock

It takes about an hour and 15 minutes for us to drive to Big Bear from my house. This time we drove up CA-330 and I was unfortunately reminded how windy the road is. The trailhead for Castle Rock is located 1.1 miles east of the Big Bear Dam on State Highway 18. There is very little parking so it’s best to try and not hike here on a busy day. We parked alongside Highway 18, but there is a very small turnout North of the trail. According to All Trails, Castle Rock Trail is 2.6 miles round-trip and is rated as moderate. This is an out and back trail.

Castle Rock Trail

There is a large map posted on the trail sign at the start of the trail. Immediately this trail starts heading up. You will gain over 500 feet of elevation in a short amount of time. The trail is well maintained. It looks like the forest service has built some permanent rock cairns. They are a tower of chicken wire that is encasing a pile of rocks. The cairns along with the trail signs posted on many of the trees help people from veering off the trail. Castle Rock is a large outcropping East of the trail. We watched someone repelling down the side of Castle Rock. On the way up we crossed the stream several times, but the water level is so low so our shoes didn’t get wet.

Heading to Bluff Lake

After Castle Rock Trail we headed to Bluff Lake. When you get to the top of Castle Rock Trail there are signs and a dirt road that cars can drive on. At the sign head west on the dirt road. Turn left at the second road. There is a sign saying that it is a dead-end, but keep going. At the end of the road, there is a large gate to keep out the cars, but hikers are allowed to pass. On the other side of the gate is The Bluff Lake Reserve that is operated by the Wildlands Conservancy. The reserve is open daily from 9:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m. May 1 – November 1st. Admission is free and dogs are allowed, but they must be on a leash. Swimming isn’t allowed at Bluff Lake.

The History of Bluff Lake

In the late 1800s, there was a YMCA Camp at Bluff Lake. In the 1920s Pomona College bought the property to use as a nature field study area. Today there is one original cabin remaining that was a stage stop for the burro trains that went through the area in the 1880s. The 1961 original Parent Trap movie was filmed at Bluff Lake as well as the 2002 Dr. Doolittle 2 movie. The Wildland Conservancy obtained the land in 2000 to save it from being developed and they drained the 20-acre lake to rid it of non-native catfish in order to restore the native fish.

Bluff Lake

In addition to the 20-acre lake, Bluff Lake Reserve is 80 acres of natural beauty. There is a one-mile trail that circles around the lake. The area is home to several species of rare plants. There are towering pine trees and a delicate meadow. We saw a few picnic tables if you want to sit down and have lunch with an amazing view, however, be warned the bugs were fierce the day we were there. The bugs weren’t biting, but they were flying up our noses and trying to get in our eyes.

Champion Lodgepole Pine

Follow the trail signs to Champion Lodgepole Pine. Lodgepole pines usually only grow above 8,000 feet and in the Sierras where it is much cooler, however, there is a small group of them growing in a meadow near Bluff Lake. The Champion Lodgepole Pine was discovered in 1963. This giant towers over the other trees and is around 110 feet tall. It is estimated to be at least 450 years old. There are numbered trail signs for an interpretive trail, but we didn’t follow it.

Siberia Creek

Sally, Jinx, and I continued on past the Champion Lodgepole Pine heading towards Gunsight. We walked alongside Siberia Creek. At one point we turned a corner and saw smoke smoldering under a tree. It was a little discerning to see. The further we walked we could see that the smoldering was remnants of a prescribed burn. The whole area looked a little like the Apocalypse. Siberia Creek Trail crosses 2 bridges and then starts to climb up a mountain. Soon we could see all the way to Mt. Baldy. We were unsure where or what is Gunsight, so after hiking on the trail for over a mile we turned back around and returned the way we had come.

Keep Your Dog On A Leash

On the way back we had planned to stop at Bluff Lake and have lunch, but our plans were derailed by an encounter with a crazy man and his dog. The man didn’t have his dog on a leash. His dog was a giant Husky and it charged at us because it wanted to play with Jinx. Jinx is still fearful of other dogs and the whole interaction wasn’t positive. We ended up leaving Bluff Lake and hiking to the top of the Castle Rock Trail and ate our lunch overlooking Big Bear Lake.

Heading Back To The Car

After lunch on our way down a guy on the way up warned us to be careful because he had just passed a big rattlesnake. If you go with children I would be really careful about where you put your hands or where you step, because there are so many hiding places for snakes amongst all the big granite boulders. Overall the trail was a great workout, we ended up hiking over 8 miles. In the morning on the way up the trail, we didn’t see another person, but on the way down in the afternoon, it was really busy. Bluff Lake is beautiful, but if I ever went back again I would hike very early in the morning to avoid the snakes and the hoards of people. The nice thing about Big Bear is there are lots of beautiful hikes to accommodate all different hiking levels.

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Devils Slide to Tahquitz Peak is a beautiful trail in the San Bernardino National Forest that leads to a National Forest Fire outlook. Tahquitz Peak is at 8,846-foot elevation. The hike is somewhere between 8 & 9.5 miles (round-trip) with a gain of 2,500 feet through the San Jacinto Wilderness. It is rated as moderate on Alltrails, but as far as peaks go if you hike often it’s on the easier side.

The Legend of Tahquitz

Legend has it that Tahquitz Peak was named by the Cahuilla Indians after a flesh-eating shaman who lived in the mountain. Tahquitz (pronounced tah-KEETS) was captured long ago behind Tahquitz Rock, so it is now safe to hike there.

A Working Fire Lookout

Tahquitz Peak Fire lookout was an active fire lookout until the end of 1993. In 1998 it reopened and is now staffed seasonally with volunteers. Inside the outlook are a single bed, an oven, and plenty of counters and tables for workspace. There is a sign at the bottom of the lookout asking that no more than 5 people at a time go to the top. The day we were there it was unmanned, but I’ve heard if there is a volunteer there they might welcome you inside for a chat. It is very similar to the lookout tower that Sally and I hiked to at Slide Mountain.

Driving to Tahquitz Peak

We started the morning on the 10 freeway heading East. In the city of Banning we turned on to Highway 243 and wound our way up the mountain to the city of Idyllwild. The trail starts at Humber Park, 24559 Fern Valley Rd, Idyllwild, CA 92549. You need an adventure pass to park in the Humber Park parking lot. Passes are $5 a day or $30 a year. Passes can be purchased at ranger stations or sporting goods stores.

You Need a Permit

There are very strict rules about obtaining a permit for this hike. If you are hiking on a weekend between Memorial Day and Labor Day you need to obtain a permit beforehand. There is a quota of 30 permits per day. You can confirm all the details with the San Jacinto Ranger District Office. If you are hiking it any other time you need to stop by the ranger’s office on the way to the trail and fill out a self serve permit.

Hiking on Devils Slide Trail

We started hiking at 9:00 a.m. and even though it was the middle of May it was cold. Too cold to be standing in the shade and not moving. The trail starts at 6,000 feet. For the first 2.5 miles we followed Devils Slide Trail. The trail itself is a series of well-maintained switchbacks. It is a moderate uphill the entire way. We stop a few times to take in the sweeping views of the Hemet/San Jacinto area. We crossed the creek a few times and saw lots of pretty wildflowers. The trail is gorgeous with pines, oaks & manzanita the whole way up. We had great views of Lily Rock which is a popular rock climbing spot, but without binoculars we weren’t able to spot any climbers.

Saddle Junction

The trail levels out when you get to Saddle Junction. As you walk through the trees you will notice signs for all the various trails you can take. It is possible to hike from Saddle Junction to Mt San Jacinto without taking the tram from the Palm Springs side. There is also a trail leading to Round Valley which is a backpacking destination. To get to Tahquitz you want to make a hard right onto the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT.) After the nice break at the junction the trail again starts heading up. We were only on the PCT for a little over a mile. We came to a sign pointing to Tahquitz Peak and we again turned right.

A Beautiful Trail

As a whole this is a beautiful hike. Along the way we crossed a few streams and saw a few little waterfalls. We came across two alien looking Snow Plants. The trees provided nice shade for us and we saw lots of birds, lizards and squirrels.

The Last Push To The Top

This part of the trail has some amazing views. We passed by views of Marion Mountain and San Jacinto off in the distance. The trail climbed in elevation and we were now above Lily Rock and that really gave us the perspective of just how far we had climbed. We ran into one giant patch of snow that made getting across a little hairy. On one side was a drop off to your death and the other side was a snow berm that looked unstable because it was melting. We took it slow and made it across. It isn’t possible to see the lookout until you are directly below it. After hiking a little less than a mile from the last turnoff we turned a corner and we saw it.

We Made To The Peak

The day we hiked to the peak the fire outlook was still closed for the season. We were able to climb up the stairs and enjoy the view, but we couldn’t see inside of the outlook. The view is outstanding. You can see Lake Hemet, Lake Elsinore, and looking in the other direction The Salton Sea. We took pictures with a trail sign and sat down on the rocks and had lunch.

Hiking With A Dog

In March we got a dog from a rescue. She is a Cattle Dog mix and she has endless energy. I have been taking her on regular hikes and walks. This was her first summit. I packed her water bowl and extra snacks. Her favorite part was walking through the snow. She did great on this hike and I’m sure it helped that there is lots of shade on the trail and it wasn’t hot the day we hiked.

Hiking Down

From the top of Tahquitz Peak you have the choice to turn around and hike back on the same trail as you hiked up on or head down a different trail that takes you into Idyllwild. We opted to head back down the way we had hiked up. The trail we didn’t try makes the hike into a loop, but it is longer and it doesn’t end in Humber Trail Parking lot. If you opt for that trail you have to walk a little way on the street. Our hike back to the car was nice. Again, this is a beautiful trail. You are treated to amazing views the whole way. Sally, Jinx, and I had a great day and I’m sure we would hike in Idyllwild more often if it didn’t involve an almost 2-hour drive from my house up a very windy road.